[iPhone buzzes. A new WhatsApp message from Auro Montanari.]
“Monday morning we can start with coffee at your hotel. Then we’ll have lunch at my place. Everything’s closed in Bologna.”
Let’s rewind a bit.
I first met Auro—better known as John Goldberger—in Milan, spring 2019. I was catching up with my friend Luca Rubinacci over drinks, which led to a small cocktail gathering at the Fortela store, founded by Alessandro Squarzi.
Alessandro, wearing his signature Jacques Marie Mage glasses and a wide Italian smile, greeted guests with effortless charm. Standing beside him was a man who looked like a cross between a Bond villain, a business titan, and a vintage collector. He wore a faded denim shirt, a vintage leather jacket with heavy patina, high-waisted wool-twill trousers in a brown mélange, and dark brown tassel loafers. At over 190cm, with broad shoulders and the sharp, scanning eyes, he immediately stood out.
He noticed everything—quietly, instantly.
“Nice shoulders,” he said between drags of a cigarette, pointing at mine.
There’s been a wave of enthusiasm around soft shoulders and spalla camicia in recent years. I get it, but I prefer structure—shoulders that are defined, shaped, and assertive. Apparently, so does Goldberger. That’s where the connection began.
At the time, I had no idea who he was. We chatted casually—about style, about MORJAS, about living in Sweden’s winters. He was curious, engaged, and deeply humble. You’d never guess this was a man with one of the world’s rarest and most coveted watch collections.
Later that evening, I posted a photo on Instagram: Luca Rubinacci, Alessandro Squarzi, and Goldberger. My DMs exploded.
“Was that Goldberger?!”
“You met the Goldberger?”
“WTF. NO WAY.”
Turns out, I had just shared a drink with horology’s equivalent of football’s Cristiano Ronaldo—without realizing.
All I knew was that I wanted to see this man in a pair of MORJAS. What I didn’t know was that Goldberger had never done a brand campaign before. That mystique, that rarity, gives him a kind of timeless aura. Yes—a sexy one.
Fast-forward to September 2020
We had originally planned to visit Auro at his home in Bologna earlier in the year but postponed due to the pandemic. We rescheduled for November.
When the date approached, I checked in. He was still up for it.
Yes, it was during COVID. Yes, I know how it sounds. But when rare opportunities come along, we can’t let them slip—pandemic or not. Photographer Abraham Engelmark and I took PCR tests, got our results, and traveled to Bologna.
We checked into one of the few open hotels.
One of the first things that struck me in my growing friendship with Auro was his thoughtfulness. He checked in often, asking how we were doing, updating us on Bologna’s situation, and assuring us he’d take good care of us.
People with big hearts do that—no matter who they are. A simple act of kindness always carries weight.
Sunday, 10:48 PM. New message from Auro: “Happy you arrived safe. Good night, see you tomorrow at 08:30 at the hotel.”
Monday, 08:24 AM. A deep, warm voice greets the receptionist: The deep, rattling, Italian voice is familiar. From a distance I hear Goldberger greet the receptionist. “Buongiorno, Signora.” Auro walks in, the embodiment of effortless style: low-cut brown suede chukkas, flannel trousers in brown-grey, a chocolate cashmere jumper under a tweed jacket, topped with a vintage US Army field jacket. A masterclass in contrast—relaxed, timeless, and undeniably cool.
Goldberger:
Ciao my friends. How was the trip?
Henrik:
Very good, thank you. Great to be in Bologna—to breathe different air for a few days.
Goldberger:
Cold in Sweden?
Henrik:
Always.
Goldberger:
Then you’re in the right place. I visited a few of my favorite spots this morning. Since everything’s closed, I’ll make lunch. We’ll start with coffee at my place, shoot some photos, then I’ll cook. Sound good?
Henrik:
Much more than we could’ve hoped for. You’re incredibly kind.
He arrives with four bags—each from a different specialty shop. Classic southern European habit: sourcing ingredients from the best place for each.
Goldberger:
OK, let’s go to my house.
We walk ten minutes through quiet streets until we reach the building where he lives with his wife, Francesca. A massive wooden door opens into a space that smells like summer rain on warm pavement—petrichor. The staircase is wide—3–4 meters—and you feel the history under your feet. This is no London townhouse with its cramped corridors.
Auro opens the door: “Welcome. Make yourself at home.”
The entrance hall is painted deep burgundy. This isn’t just an apartment. It’s not even a house. It’s a home—a place with soul, filled with warmth, stories, and character. Abraham, my not-so-subtle photographer friend, begins snapping photos with his iPhone to share with his wife, an interior designer.
He shows me her reply: “……….”
That says it all.
This isn’t Pinterest-perfect. It’s better. It’s real. A beautiful, eclectic curation of books, watches, art, and objects—each with a story, each with purpose.
Goldberger
Come. I’ll show you around.
He leads us through room after room until we arrive at his dressing room. Rough estimate? 35–40 square meters.
The room is a sanctuary of style. Walls lined with tailored garments, shelves filled with immaculately arranged shoes, and drawers that—one can only assume—contain treasures most collectors would dream of. But nothing feels ostentatious. It’s curated, not flaunted. Lived-in, not showroom perfect.
He opens one drawer—inside are perfectly folded knitwear in soft cashmere, in muted shades of grey, brown, and navy. Another drawer reveals a selection of ties, all vintage, many likely older than I am. The attention to detail is astounding. Not in a loud, showy way—but in a deeply personal, considered way.
Goldberger
If I don’t wear something for a few years, I give it away. I like knowing my wardrobe is in motion.
We continue into his library, where watches, books, and vintage memorabilia co-exist seamlessly. There are framed photographs of icons—Steve McQueen, Paul Newman—but they’re not hung for show. They’re part of the story. Part of his story.
He picks up a book and hands it to me. One of his own publications—meticulously researched, beautifully laid out. The kind of book that reminds you why print will always matter. He flips through the pages, pointing out stories, quirks, references. Not to boast, but to share.
”When you spend enough time with objects, you develop a relationship with them. They start speaking to you. Not literally, of course—but they have a language of their own.”
It sounds almost spiritual. And honestly, it kind of is.
[I prepare the shoes. Goldberger selects the outfits.]
Yes, I know—you want more details about Goldberger’s home. But I’ll leave it at that. He’s already shared more than ever before, and it’s a level of intimacy I won’t exploit. All you really need to know is: it’s wow.
In terms of styling, Goldberger has a very personal taste—elegant, precise, relaxed. You don’t interfere with someone who knows what they’re doing. You step back and let them work their magic. All the styling was done by Auro himself.
We shot some looks before it was time for lunch.
Goldberger
All good? Happy? Great, let’s have lunch.
Watching Goldberger in the kitchen is like watching someone move through tai chi. Every action is deliberate, unhurried. He offers us a taste.
Goldberger:
I got this mozzarella—you’re about to try the best you’ve ever had. Here, taste.
He’s right. It is the best mozzarella I’ve ever had.
The table fills with avocado and tomato salad, gorgonzola, mortadella, Parma ham, smoked salmon.
Goldberger:
I bought this specially smoked salmon because I wanted to hear your opinion. You’re from Sweden—you know salmon. This one is smoked in a very particular way by a friend.
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Henrik:
It’s excellent. The smoke softens the intensity of the fish—it makes it more refined.
Goldberger:
Exactly! I’m glad you like it. You like wine?
Henrik:
Like a fat kid in a candy store.
Goldberger:
Then let’s open something special.
[Pause. If it’s not clear already, Goldberger is no ordinary host. Everything he does comes from a place of genuine care. He wakes up early to buy the best from his trusted delicacy shops. He finds a unique salmon just so we can try it. He opens a bottle of Pinot Noir that would make Dionysus sing. He enjoys making others feel cared for. It’s deeply inspiring.]
Henrik:
Both Abraham and I are honestly speechless. Thank you, Auro. For everything.
)
Goldberger:
My pleasure. Really.
Henrik:
While we enjoy this soul-satisfying lunch, I’d love to record our chat, if that’s okay?
Goldberger:
Good thinking.
Henrik:
Many people know you as John Goldberger, but that’s not your real name. Why did you choose that pseudonym?
Goldberger:
I like to stay private. I’m naturally reserved. As you know, this is the first time I’ve opened my home to a brand. My real name is Auro Montanari. 'Auro' means ‘gold’ in Latin, and ‘Montanari’ comes from ‘montagna’—mountain. So, Goldberger is simply a play on my name. Gold + Mountain = Goldberger.
Henrik:
You were born and raised in Bologna. What did your parents do?
Goldberger:
My father started a company that made electronic components. Originally, we produced consumer tech for off-air TV reception. In more recent years, we’ve shifted into making high-end enclosures—like those for iPhones. It’s highly technical and very niche. It’s still a family-run business, and I’m now the CEO.
Both my parents were also passionate art collectors. They focused on 16th and 17th-century furniture and paintings—mostly Italian. They did it out of pure love for art. As a kid, I travelled with them a lot to exhibitions around the world.
Henrik:
And that’s how your interest in collecting began?
Goldberger:
Exactly. My father saw I was bored at art shows, so he introduced me to watches. Back then, they were relatively inexpensive compared to art. He wanted me to find something I could appreciate, and also collect. So while they explored galleries, I wandered flea markets. That’s where I started spotting Rolexes, Pateks, Cartiers—for very little money. This was in the 1970s.
Henrik:
Did you buy based on taste or knowledge?
Goldberger:
I trusted two things: my heart and my eye. It’s still the advice I give today—buy what you genuinely love. Back then, there was no internet, few books. Information was scarce. So you had to go on instinct. My father encouraged me to stick with big names like Rolex and Patek. He told me not to buy Cartier, joking it was for coiffeurs—hairdressers. But I didn’t listen. I love Cartier.
Goldberger:
More wine?
Henrik:
Yes, please. While we’re at it—what’s the best food experience of your life?
)
Goldberger:
It was in Japan. A close friend, also a collector, took me to a hidden sushi spot. Tiny, almost secret. The food was mind-blowing. A once-in-a-lifetime meal.
Henrik:
What were dinner conversations like in your home growing up?
Goldberger:
Lots of discussions about art—its history, origin, influence. I’m incredibly grateful for those moments. They helped me see the world through a cultural and historical lens.
Henrik:
Any values from that time that still guide you?
Goldberger:
Know what you’re buying—whatever it is. Even if it’s driven by taste, understand it. That’s tricky when there’s little information, but I learned a lot through flea markets, libraries, and conversations with fellow collectors.
Henrik:
Were you good in school?
Goldberger:
Not really. I paid little attention. But when I liked something, I really got into it.
Henrik:
I can tell.
Goldberger:
I loved mathematics, chemistry, physics.
Henrik:
And history?
Goldberger:
That came from home. But math and physics—those are key to understanding watches. I’ve always wanted to know how things work.
Henrik:
What was your childhood dream?
Goldberger:
To be an astronaut. I was obsessed with science fiction.
Henrik:
What was your first watch? And do you still have it?
Goldberger:
My first was a gift from my father at my Confirmation in 1965. It was made in 1957—the year I was born. The second came on my 18th birthday: a steel Pulsar from Tiffany, bought in New York.
The first watch I bought for myself was a 1940s art deco Rolex chronograph. I found it in a small antique shop in Bologna in 1978. And yes—I still have all of them.
Henrik:
You’re now 63. How would you break down your life by decade?
Goldberger:
Until I was 20, I was obsessed with photography. My father gave me a Leicaflex Hasselblad, which became my creative outlet.
At 22, I moved to Venice Beach, California, to study graphic design. Those were fun years—filled with photography, basketball, and exploration. My younger brother joined me.
In my 30s, I returned to Italy and took charge of design at our company—product catalogs, advertising, branding. Everything creative.
From 40 to 50, I really dove into the business side. It was intense, but I still carved out time every day to study watches.
In my 50s, I became CEO. I finally had more freedom—to travel, go to flea markets, attend auctions. And, of course, pursue my passion for watches.
Henrik:
Have you ever made a living buying and selling watches?
Goldberger:
No. It’s never been about business. It’s always been about passion.
Henrik:
Mmm. A diplomatic answer—you do have one of the rarest collections in the world.
Goldberger:
So they say. But my work, my career—that’s rooted in the family company.
Henrik:
Dream watch?
Goldberger:
There’s one. It never went to market. In 2001: A Space Odyssey, Hamilton designed a watch with a unique curved case. Only six prototypes were made. That’s the one. The original from the movie.
Henrik:
Any regrets about selling a watch?
Goldberger:
Always. Every time I sell one, I feel a little sad.
Henrik:
What draws you to a watch? Rarity, design, movement, provenance?
Goldberger:
All of it. But mostly rarity and quality. It’s got to be beautiful, rare, and well-made. And—most of all—something you enjoy wearing. This is a passion. Not an investment.
Henrik:
Your collection and books have focused heavily on Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe. Is there a brand you’re particularly interested in now?
Goldberger:
Longines. During the first half of the 20th century, they made extraordinary watches—pieces for the military, for pilots, explorers. Great movements, great design. A bit under the radar, but very deserving of attention.
Henrik:
Quartz watches—what’s your take?
Goldberger:
There are definitely a few interesting watches in this field. Especially the first watches by Seiko. The first by Bulova. And by Pulsar. I like the design of these watches during the end of the 60s.
Henrik:
Ever since the now iconic scene in the Talking Watches episode by Hodinkee where you casually opened the case back of an extremely rare Rolex Chronograph with a charcuterie knife, I´ve felt like you have a very relaxed way of looking at even the most exclusive pieces in your collection.
Goldberger:
Yes sure. But don’t be fooled. I’ve opened thousands and thousands of watches in my life so even though I’m relaxed, I’m paying a lot of respect to the watch, because I know in my sleep how to do it.
But yes, at the end of the day it’s just a watch. Even though I love watches you must remember that it’s a watch. It’s a thing. Even though it’s beautiful, rare and of high quality it’s still just a thing. If you’re too caught up and too tense about the watches, you take away the enjoyment of the watch in the first place. I think that’s pretty central in my way of looking at this.
Henrik:
Most of your watches seem to be vintage. How do you feel about modern watches and the current state of the industry?
Goldberger:
There are a few nice modern watches. For sure.
For me the most incredible modern watch manufacturer is Richard Mille. Because their watches are highly unusual, they have their own unique identity and they don’t copy others. They are all-in and don’t compromise. They invest a lot in research and design which is exciting to see for a watch enthusiast. The designs are extremely advanced and meticulously executed. So overall it’s a very well manufactured watch. Maybe a little expensive, but I do love them.
My favourite from them is the Bubba Watson version. It’s a Tourbillon with magnesium case. It’s so light it can float on the water.
Henrik:
Besides your impeccable watches, you have an excellent taste in art and style in general. Are you passionate about clothes and shoes?
Goldberger:
Yes, very. I have two tailors that I’ve gone to the majority of my life. Then I combine my style with vintage pieces that I can find anywhere. I like to combine relaxed pieces with more formal attire. It creates a nice contrast. Like this. A pair of wool trousers, a polo shirt, a jacket and a pair of loafers That’s all you need right?
Henrik:
A mix of casual, formal and vintage.
Goldberger:
Yes that’s a good way to put it.
)
Henrik:
You mostly sell watches on auction and not so much in private. How come?
Goldberger:
Yes, to a great extent. It’s very hard to find private collectors with the magnitude. I prefer the auction because then everyone has access to the watch. It’s open to everyone right? I think that makes sense.
Henrik:
What has changed in the watch collecting community since you started and what are your predictions for the future collectors?
Goldberger:
You can describe it very simple. Before, the watch industry and its collector community was closed. Today it’s open for everyone.
And by far the biggest reason to why that is, is the internet. Which we have to thank.
My prediction for the future is that more young collectors are emerging which is exciting to see. And especially from anywhere in the world. Everything has become more open.
Henrik:
Is there any particular watch in your collection that you would never consider to part with?
Goldberger:
I love all my watches, but of course. The first one I got from my father lies extremely close to my heart.
Henrik:
If you were to advise a young aspiring collector, what or where would you suggest one to start?
Goldberger:
Focus on tool watches. Diving. Chronographs. Watches created from the 50s to the 70s. Start with that to learn and then you can develop from there.
Henrik:
You sold a watch, dubbed the unicorn, for 6.5 MUSD and donated the money to charity. That says a lot about you.
Goldberger:
Well, it’s a really good charity. I decided before the auction that I would donate the money.
Henrik:
Mm. Just like that.
[For 30 seconds we’re silent. I’m looking at Auro. He’s looking gently at me. He looks up. I’m trying to understand what’s guiding this man behind the surface. He is personal, but reserved. He is generous, but private. What early-life lessons sculpted this man into the individual he is today? What values were instilled in him when he was a child that made him to being one of the most humble men I’ve met?]
Henrik:
You should be proud of yourself Auro. I know that you keep waving it away, but you should honor it.
Goldberger:
Thank you. Thank you. I’m happy you enjoy it. On another note, the endorsement we spoke about for this campaign: please donate it to Morjas social mission The Shoe That Grows.
Henrik:
You serious?
Goldberger:
Yes Henrik. Look. I have everything I need. We just finished a good lunch, had good wine and I’m healthy. What more could I ask for? The children in your cause need it much more than I do.
Henrik:
Thank you Auro. I know that Kenton who is the founder of The Shoe That Grows will be over the moon as many organizations have pulled the plug with donations during Covid. It means a lot.
Goldberger:
My pleasure.
Auro looks up. Thinks. Asks: “How is it in Sweden during the summer?”
Henrik:
Incredibly beautiful with lots of light. Let’s make a deal. When the pandemic is over I will invite you and Francesca to Sweden and it will be our turn to host. Deal?
Goldberger:
I would love that. I know my wife will be very excited. Thank you. Maybe already this summer?
Henrik:
Yes I really hope so.
[We wrap up the day. I’m going back to the hotel impacted by Auro’s way of living. Guided by love and simplicity on how to look at things. When others complicate, Auro simplifies. It’s a good reminder in life.]
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Our campaign with Goldberger was shot at his house in Bologna, Italy. Photographer is Abraham Engelmark. Creative direction and styling by Goldberger and Henrik Berg.
